If you have been to Goa and have not tried the quintessential Goan breakfast, bhaaji pao, you are missing out! Bhaaji pao is a mix of two bhaajis (vegetable curry). One made with potatoes called paatal bataat bhaaji and the other made with white peas called chonyachi bhaaji. Both the curries are lightly spiced with the simplest of spices and served with the Goan pao called undo. It is a combination made in heaven and close to every Goan’s heart!

Growing up, outside food was seldom allowed at home. However, every Goan will be able to relate when I say that moms and grandmas would be like, “Arey maatso pasryar vach ani 5 rupyachi bhaaji ghevun yo chavek” (Go to the local store and get some bhaaji for breakfast). I remember my grandma sending me to the neighboring home store with a container. The owner sold bhaaji every morning besides the regular stuff you get in a small store. I would hand her the dabba and she would fill it with bhaaji and return. Of course, she would hand it with a piece of candy for me 🙂 It was a respite for the ladies of the house from cooking, I guess. But the bhaaji was always made by a neighbor they knew well, and in the end, it was a healthy breakfast choice.

Every Goan has their own favorite “adda” (hangout place) for bhaaji. My husband loves “Bappali bhaaji” in Merces and a lot of Goans will tell you that they like “Tatyali bhaaji” (Tato is a famous local restaurant chain). However, my favorite location was in Mardol, Ponda. Every year we would go to Mardol for Ganesh Chaturthi. It is a beautiful village in Goa and has many temples, lush greenery, and springs. The thing I looked forward to was waking up early in the morning to explore the neighborhood. We would walk to the market and then stop by a small locally owned restaurant in the market to eat bhaaji pao. Was the bhaaji special or different than that we found anywhere else? Not really! I think it was the company of all cousins, aunts, uncles that made it even more enjoyable. 

What you will need to make Paatal Bataat Bhaaji:

How to make it:

• Wash and peel the potatoes. Cut into 1-inch cubes.
• Add to a pot with water and salt.
• Let the potatoes cook and get soft. Stir occasionally to prevent it from burning.
• For the tempering, heat oil in a tadka pan. Add the cumin seeds.
• Add crushed garlic cloves and cook until they begin to brown.
• Next, add curry leaves, green chilies, and turmeric powder.
• Put this tadka on the boiled potatoes. 
• Mix well. You can add more water depending on the consistency you desire. This gravy is usually runny. 

What you will need to make Chonyachi Bhaaji:

How to make it:

• Soak the vatana overnight. The next morning, discard the water.
• Pressure cook the vatana with fresh water (enough to cover it), diced tomato, and salt until soft. 
• Roughly dice the onion. Grate the coconut and set aside. 
• Heat oil in a pan. Add the onion and green chilies. Saute until it begins to brown. 
• To this, add coriander seeds and grated coconut. Saute for 5 minutes. 
• Turn the flame off and add garam masala, coriander seed powder, kashmiri chili powder, and turmeric. 
• Mix well. Let this mixture cool to room temperature. 
• Grind it into a fine paste with a minimum amount of water (around 1/2 cup). 
• Add this mixture to the cooked vatana.
• For the tempering, heat oil and add asafetida to it.
• Next, go in the mustard seeds. Once they splutter, add the curry leaves. 
• Pour the tempering over the vatana as well. 
• Mix everything well and bring it to a boil. 

How to serve it:

• On a plate, add the paatal batat bhaji on one side and the chonyachi bhaji on the other. Serve with Goan pao.
• Enjoy!!